The name Don Blackburn might not be as familiar as Robert Mondavi, but he leaves a legacy as one of the finest creators of Pinot Noir in the world. He was not only a Norwegian-born, French-trained American winemaker, but also a philosopher, ballet dancer, social critic, craftsman, frontiersman, resource conservationist, skydiver, musicologist, writer, surfer, Scottish Presbyterian and devoted husband and father. He died after a valiant battle with cancer on April 23 at 54 years of age.

Don studied texts dating back to the 17th century to uncover the roots of the practical aspects of winemaking, learning techniques that we are now rediscovering with the help of technology. While in France, Don also became the first foreign correspondent for the Wine Spectator. His 25-year winemaking career in America includes winemaking positions at Elliston Vineyards, Bernardus Vineyards, Byington Winery and David Bruce Winery. His career culminated with the crafting of his finest Pinot Noirs at Emeritus Vineyards in the Russian River Valley, where his favorite vineyard has been renamed in his honor as McDonald Mountain.

One of Don's many protégés described him as the Plato of winemaking, although in actuality he preferred Aristotle. He believed the finest quality a wine could aspire to was charm, not concentration, and while appreciating technology, in the final analysis he relied upon his intuition. Don never made wine "by the numbers," instead he used intuitive metaphors, often from music and poetry, when describing his wines.

A celebration of Don's life will be held at Emeritus Vineyards on June 5 from 12:00 noon until (like his wines) the character of this charming man has been fully revealed, and his family and friends are left with an ineffable sense of well being.

Emeritus Vineyards is located at 2500 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol, CA 95472. Please RSVP at (707) 823-4464, though all are welcome, with or without notice.